Buying time.
When curators at the Metropolitan Museum of Art decided to overhaul their Islamic art galleries, they chose a traditional stucco carver from Morocco to hand-finish the stunning Moroccan Courtyard.
And why not?
Moroccan artisans have been honing their skills for centuries. If you need proof, head for the medieval souk in Fez for an eyeful. Ceramics, tiles, leather, copper, brass, gold, hats, and on and on. A dizzying sight.
Shopping is so much more than buying this and that when you penetrate the world’s original emporia. Forthwith, we share a few of our favorite spots with you.
Though in our humble opinion nothing quite measures up to Fez’s old souk, we do love the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey, a hub of trade since 1461. If you can’t find it in one of the 60 labyrinthine streets and 5,000 shops, it probably doesn’t exist. Furniture, icons, hookahs, Iznik tiles in every shade of blue, geometric kilims, coins and candlesticks, jewelry, copperware... Also within the complex: four fountains, two mosques, two hammams, and cafés and restaurants, should your stomach start growling.
The world’s greatest (and most pleasant) food market? La Boqueria in Barcelona, Spain. If you’ve ever treated your taste buds to jamón Iberico, you’ll understand. (If not, whatever are you waiting for?) Barcelonans of all stripes shop here for their ingredients, even Chef Ferran Adrià of (the late) El Bulli. The aisles spill over with fruits, vegetables, meat of all kinds, seafood, farm eggs, juices, nuts, sweets, and of course uncountable varieties of jamón Iberico, Spanish dry-cured ham. Don’t visit La Boqueria without stopping for a nibble. Head for Bar Pinotxo, near the main entrance. The stools are few, the culinary delights plentiful.
Another excellent food emporium is the Central Market Hall in Budapest, Hungary. It opened in 1897, a modern market with a system of canals built into the ground floor that allowed fresh produce, meats, and fish to be delivered quickly to the merchants. Alas, the canals are history. Down to the basement for a quick breakfast and a chance to pick up spices, tea, and pickles at Azsia Delicatessen. Up to the first-floor stalls, next, packed with paprika (sweet and hot), strings of garlic, salami, sausage, ham, pastries, dairy, wine, dried mushrooms, honey, and more. Another flight up, and you’re surrounded with gift stalls and inexpensive eateries favored by the locals. Order a sausage or a langos, fried dough rubbed with garlic and topped with sour cream, grated cheese, or other ingredients. Wash it all down with a cool beer or a glass of Tokaj (Hungarian red wine).
Should you find yourself in Delhi, India (and you should), take a half day to browse Chandni Chowk, the major thoroughfare through Old Delhi created by Emperor Shah Jahan in the mid-1600s. Even four centuries later, the Mughal roots of this lively pedestrian street endure. A visit combines browsing with sightseeing, as Chandni Chowk is home to several historic and religious sites: the Red Fort; a 16th-century Jain temple; an 800-year-old Hindu temple; a 17th-century Sikh temple; an 18th-century mosque. Fanning off Chandni Chowk are galis, narrow alleys, along which merchants compete for customers. Each gali is named for the product sold. Paratha Wali Gali, for example, specializes in little eateries that serve paratha, India flat bread. Don’t miss Jalebiwala, a century-old sweets shop known for its jalebis, deep-fried dough squiggles soaked in sugary syrup.
If you love to sift through everything antique, take in Les Puces, the Flea Market, at Paris’s Porte de Clignancourt. Dealers along the Rue des Rosiers open up for weekends, then close for the week to regroup and restock (some are open on Mondays till lunchtime). You could furnish an entire house with treasures found along the street. Whole shops specialize in mirrors, others in art deco, country furniture, 50s kitsch, 18th-century silver, old prints, oils, Asian pieces, archaeological finds, architectural remnants, old books, and vintage rugs, clothing, luggage... Remember that the earlier you arrive at Les Puces, the better the bargains and the smaller the crowds.