The kingdom and I.
Field notes by David Weber, Managing Director, R. Crusoe & Son
I first encountered Bhutan about 10 years ago. I found myself 35,000 feet above it, flying from Katmandu to Chengdu, China, when I glanced out the window and spotted terrain unlike any I had seen before. The contrast of vast sweeping valleys and magnificent Himalayan peaks took my breath away. I asked the flight crew our location and learned we were over the Kingdom of Bhutan. I added it to my bucket list immediately.
Time marches on. In the decade since, a number of R. Crusoe colleagues and travelers have had wonderful experiences in Bhutan. At last, it was my turn. My wife, Patty, and I would host a small group of travelers to Bhutan in October 2011.
“What—and where—is Bhutan?” That was the first question we got from many friends. Here’s the answer: Bhutan is a tiny kingdom about the size of Maryland, with a population of 726,000. It doesn’t typically register on the nightly news. Isolated for decades, sandwiched between giant slices of India and China and with Tibet its neighbor to the north, it is not a destination conveniently located on the way to someplace else. Bhutan boasts exactly one airport and one airline that handle international flights.
Patty and I, and the R. Crusoe group we hosted, spent ten days traveling the country in a bid to experience the country and its people up close and firsthand. These days, there are few places one can visit without running into other foreigners. Bhutan is definitely one of those rare destinations, and that’s not by accident. The Bhutanese government specifically limits the number of visitors in hopes that its cultural transition will be a gradual one.
Bhutan has two tiny cities: Paro and the capital, Thimphu. Both offer their share of creature comforts (though as far as I know, Thimphu is the world’s only capital without a single traffic light). Each city has two five-star hotels. Beyond the cities, most hotels are fairly basic, with the exception of several extraordinary Aman properties.
We found the Bhutanese to be welcoming, friendly, and easy to get to know. It’s no coincidence that this is the Land of Gross National Happiness. Perhaps this is a result of a Buddhist upbringing—the vast majority of Bhutanese practice Tantric Buddhism.
Our group found itself smack in the middle of the world’s youngest democracy. In 2005, the beloved King Wangchuck felt it was time for his children to become independent. He asked his prime minister (who joined our group for dinner one evening) to draft a constitution that allowed all Bhutanese people to offer input (it was posted on the Internet) before final approval. Bhutan’s first elections took place in 2008. King Wangchuck also had another surprise: He would retire and pass the crown to his son. I’m not surprised that King Wangchuck was tired; he has four current wives (but only one mother-in-law).
More fortuitous timing for our group: During our visit, the handsome new king, 31 years old, would marry a beautiful young woman, and the whole country was in a festive mood. It was clear the people loved their king.
We visited Bhutan during its historic—but nonetheless graceful and well-planned—transition from an agricultural society. Though the kingdom relies on India for most imports, it recently entered the world market as an exporter of hydroelectric energy.
Although a four-lane paved highway connects Paro and Thimphu, most roads throughout the country are narrow, with many carved into mountainsides. The trade-off is that you pass through some of the world’s most remarkable and pristine scenery. In a single day, you can go from subtropical forests to snow-draped mountains.
Our group landed in Paro and headed directly for Thimphu. We toured several important museums, dined with Dasho Benji, a cousin of the king and a noted environmentalist, watched as artisans hand-wove textiles, and spent time with Kunzang Choden, one of Bhutan's favorite novelists.
Dochu La Pass, at 10,300 feet above sea level, led us along the Himalayas through astounding scenery to an ancient monastery. Then up to the Phobjikha Valley to tour an important monastery built in 1613.
While at Gangtey Monastery, we observed and participated in a ceremony held for one of the monks, a ritual performed only once a year. The colors, sounds, food—the total experience—was one that we'll remember forever.
In Wangdi, we attended the first of several wonderful tshechus (festivals). We watched masked dances, examined fine art, observed age-old religious rituals, saw people gather to socialize, gossip, embrace, and reunite. Another celebration followed in Thimphu.
Punakha Dzong, which was being prepared for the wedding, was a sight to behold.
Back in Paro, our group was invited into a nunnery. We saw female monks going about their simple daily routines. We entered their living quarters and their temple. After exploring the city’s most important monuments, we hiked up to Tiger’s Nest, a spectacular monastery perched on the edge of a sheer rock face. There, we heard the legend of Guru Rinpoche (who brought Buddhism to Bhutan) and his arrival on the back of a flying tigress.
I urge you to add Bhutan to your bucket list. Get there sooner rather than later to discover for yourself a unique Eastern nation where the environment as well as religion, art, and culture remain largely intact. Bhutan is nothing less than a peaceful island of tradition in a churning sea of Asian modernization.