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R. Crusoe's Travel Journal

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History 101

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World's worst trip?

Bad choice of destination? Poor accommodations?

No amenities? Unfriendly people?

Our miserable unwilling traveler had, however, just one good thing.

An enormous stomach for the unexpected.

And so it was, he ended up making the most famous trip in human history.

Dropping in on New Zealand

Bound for New Zealand? Lucky you. So many travelers allow New Zealand to languish for years on their must-see list in the "someday" category, yet virtually everyone who returns says it easily deserves a spot in the Number One or Two positions.

First and foremost, New Zealand's visual panoramas are stunning. Almost three-quarters of the country is hilly or mountainous, and much of it framed by ocean vistas, all offering rewarding views from sea level to peak and every elevation in between. In its summertime (December through April), it never gets too hot no matter where you go.

Wellington, NZ

The best-known city, Auckland, is located on an isthmus, so the maritime environment is predominant and sailing is a major pastime. The beaches, miles of them, are very nice, and you might want to see the races at Ellerslie Racecourse or the view from the top of Mt. Eden, an extinct volcano.

At Auckland's zoo, you can see the kiwi, New Zealand's national bird, and the tuatara lizard. Don't miss the War Memorial Museum, with one of the finest Maori collections in the world. The main area for shopping is Queen Street; and shoppers will also want to know about Parnell Village, an attractive area filled with boutiques and restaurants.

On the southern tip of the North Island lies Wellington, capital of New Zealand and home to its architecturally pleasing Parliament. The conservative city overlooks a beautiful harbor while above it, reached via cable car, are the Botanical Gardens. Art and culture lovers should note the National Museum and Art Gallery; and those who are curious about the past will appreciate the Alexander Turnbull Library, specializing in Pacific geography and history. Shoppers: This is your town; New Zealand's best shopping is here on Willis Street.

Queenstown, in the heart of the South Island on the shore of Lake Wakatipu, is ready for your camera lens with the Southern Alps as a lovely backdrop in the distance. While adventure travelers know this area well for its superior hiking, mountain climbing and extreme sports, those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground will appreciate the Central Otago wine region, an increasingly favored destination for culinary tourism.

It's fun to sample restaurants by chance, but one evening you might include a trip to dine at casual Saffron, located in rustic, gold-rush-era Arrowtown. It is well worth the 15-minute drive from Queenstown. The Saffron dining room is a clubby space with magenta walls, suede banquettes, leather chairs, candlelight and soft jazz. Australian chef Peter Gawron, who spent a year cooking in Thailand, delights with dishes such as chicken and prawn sausage on a bean sprout salad with coconut dressing; Asian-style crayfish; or a knockout rack of venison; and his book featuring food from the Otaga heartland will help you take the experience home. Portions are generous and the selection of wines is excellent. Dinner for two, before wine, about $100. 18 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown. Tel: 64-3-442-0131.