Marrakech, Morocco: Flowers & Food
Yves St. Laurent kept a home in Marrakech that drew international attention from architectural and couture magazines for its exotic, relaxed style. YSL found creative inspiration in all that surrounded him, including the botanical Jardin Majorelle, which he purchased in 1980 and where his ashes were scattered after his death in 2008.
The gardens are named for another creative spirit, Jacques Majorelle, a gifted French painter who moved to Marrakech in the 1920s to recuperate from heart problems. He stayed for decades, planting an amazing garden from which he drew inspiration in the same way that Claude Monet, a contemporary of Majorelle, did from his lilies at Giverny.
Majorelle also infused inspiration into the gardens by painting its buildings an intense blue, now known as Majorelle Blue and often seen in contemporary Moroccan architecture.
The gardens are open to the public and definitely worth a stroll, if your time in Marrakech permits.
Dining in Marrakech
If you haven't been given a restaurant recommendation by someone whose opinion you trust, it's always best to check with your hotel staff before setting out for an authentic Moroccan feast. Some highly advertised restaurants just don't measure up to their claims; others can be far from your hotel and difficult to reach. Our last visit produced the following recommendations:
Tobsil, an excellent choice, is one of the Medina's top dining spots. There is no menu, so plan to settle in for an enjoyable night of culinary excess. Expect such savories as pastilla (pigeon pie), fresh vegetable dishes, and tagine (a fragrant stew, usually chicken or lamb based). Service is smooth and friendly. Dinner for two, before wine, about $100. 22 Derb Abdellah Ben Hessaien. Tel: 212-24-444-052.
Few Moroccan restaurants in the Medina—and even fewer on Djemaa el Fna (Marrakech’s main square)—serve alcohol. Le Marrakchi is an exception. Make sure to book a window table for a ringside view of the nightly action on the square. The house specialty is chicken tagine with olives and lemon, and it is very good. Domestic wines are well worth trying too; we thoroughly enjoyed a Semillon here. Unlike many other traditional Marrakech restaurants, you can order a la carte. Dinner for two, before wine, about $65. Djemaa el Fna. Tel: 212-24-443-377.
Jad Mahal can be an entire evening's enjoyment. The a la carte tagine and couscous are fine, and the menu also offers decent international food including steaks. But the food is only part of the attraction. Traditional belly dancers and a quirky live band that follows the dancers add color to one of the city's less pretentious excursions. Dinner for two, before wine, about $80. Fontaine de la Mamounia. Tel: 212-24-436-984.