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orty-eight hundred miles of canals wind through France. Cruising along them are barges, which (despite that slightly clunky word) are frankly luxurious... exclusive floating country inns, really, catering to quite small groups.

The French have anticipated your need to get away from it all.

Awaken each day in your lovely room with private bath. Drink in the morning air, then coffee (served by one of your discreet bilingual crewmembers).

Fresh-cut flowers. Well-stocked libraries (and wine cellars). Sun decks, perhaps a grand piano, maybe a swimming pool. Almost heartbreakingly good meals created by your personal on-board chef from the pick of local markets along the way.

There are several ways to go: charter one of the five barges hand-selected by R. Crusoe for your own intimate group of four, six or eight or 12 (depending on the boat). Or join a scheduled cruise if you (and yours) don't need a whole barge to yourselves.

The Fleur de Lys (6 passengers) and the Hirondelle (8) wind through the Cote d'Or, Burgundy, Franche-Comte, and along the Saone River. The Amaryllis (8) highlights Burgundy then follows the Loire and Rhone rivers into the Camargue, France's cowboy country. The Alouette (6) explores the waterways of Bordeaux, the sunny Midi, the Camargue, and glorious Provence. Finally, the Napoleon (12) travels the Rhone and Saone rivers into Provence.

Traveling with a slightly larger group? If so, consider chartering the Amaryllis and the Fleur de Lys in tandem or the Hirondelle and Alouette in tandem. The barges can cruise in pairs, allowing passengers to enjoy the amenities of both boats.

Unless you choose to barge on the Alouette, you begin in Paris; passengers on the Alouette take off from Beziers or Carcassonne, depending on the specific departure date.

Gently Barging Through France. 8 Days.

Departures: April through October

Prices: From $23,100 for a whole barge that sleeps four; from $42,900 for a barge that sleeps six; from $33,000 for a river barge that sleeps eight; from $52,800 for a river barge that sleeps 12. Prices do not include air.